KYMCO has long been one of our favorite brands of scooters. Although they are not as well known in Canada as Honda, Yamaha, and Vespa, they make top quality scooters and are represented in Canada by a great distributor.

We were wondering which models would be available in Canada for 2012 – this is what we found out:

KYMCO Taiwan has recently announced a new strategy for the North American market that is intended to restructure and consolidate the model line ups for USA and Canada. Because of this the product line has been modified as follows:

For further information, check out the KYMCO Canada website

Josh Ilott and his team at Ride Scooters are pleased to announce that we are moving our scooter machine shop to  Victoria. Expert tuner, Josh Ilott, is a well-known and respected name in the Canadian scooter industry for over 15 years. He and his team are trained and experienced in modern automatics to vintage classics and everything in between. Ride Scooters is the name behind countless show-winning restorations and currently holds the coveted title of ‘fastest scooter in Canada’ (0-100kmph in 5.88 seconds). Josh’s work is a staple in the private collections of serious Scooter enthusiasts.

Ride Scooters will be open for business on March 1^st, 2012. From mild to wild, Ride Scooters offers dependable, knowledgeable and personalized service in the BEST tooled scooter machine shop in Canada.

Services offered:

·      Regular service to all makes and models, automatic to classic

·      Economy tuning

·      Machine shop services (cylinder porting, nikasil re-plating, aluminum welding, boring, honing, crank building, etc.)

·      Super tuning  (nitrous conversions, reed conversions, component lightening and more)

·      Concours restorations and custom work

·      Quality parts

UPDATE Feb 16, 2012

Unmatched, scooter ONLY service will be available in the heart of Victoria starting March 1st! Tuner Josh Ilott of Ride Scooters will be bringing the best diagnostic equipment and scooter tooling in Canada along with his 15+ years experience  in order to serve you and your scoot!

Regular service, exotic tuning and fair prices are what Ride Scooters is all about.

Past Scooter Underground customers can request to have their service records forwarded to Josh.

Open to the public Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday from 9:30 to 5:30.

Beat the rush and book now via  ridescooters@gmail.com

Address:  656 Discovery St.

Phone:  250 383 1261 (effective March 1, 2012)

Looking forward to keeping you and your scooter happily on the road!

Have a look at what Josh does for fun: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1jBvaa7GlVo

Miles then approached the folks at eZee Bike Canada who agreed to set him up with an eZee Torq electric bicycle, several batteries, and chargers which would be required for his long distance trip. The eZee bikes have proven their endurance in Africa on the Katima to Cape ride in 2009 and the folks at eZee were eager to test their product on a grueling ride in Canadian conditions where hills, cold & wet weather, and heavier loads were going to be encountered.

Miles will be blogging on http://blog.ezeebike.ca Follow his progress and check out one of his musical dates.

Code: 7VXAHGCCEZUZ

This is an electric bicycle. Electric bicycles are usually based on traditional bicycle designs but they incorporate a battery pack, controller, and an electric hub motor on the front wheel, rear wheel, or both wheels.The electric bike can function pretty well as a bicycle even without having any battery power. If you want a bit of exercise, just turn off the power or leave the battery at home for a charge. Storage is usually accomplished by the rider wearing a backpack or attaching saddle bags, bungee cords, or other storage device to the rear carrier (panniers). Electric bicycles typically do not incorporate built-in alarm systems. In most jurisdictions, they are treated just like bicycles and they are allowed on bike lanes and commuter trails. Electric bicycles are available in a wide range of prices. Our advise: Unless you are spending at least $1,500US, stay away from electric bikes.

This is an electric scooter. Electric scooters look like their gas scooter cousins except they are battery powered. Virtually all electric scooters have much smaller wheel diameters than electric bikes. They are designed as “twist n’ go” so that you just have to turn the throttle. They make lousy bicycles and the pedals are really for emergency use only.Most electric scooters have lockable and waterproof storage under the seat. Many electric scooter models have a built-in alarm and immobilizer to prevent theft. The electric scooter offers a bit of protection from rain and wind. Depending on the jurisdiction, the electric scooter may encounter more restrictions than the electric bicycle. To date, most electric scooters seen in North America have been Chinese imports and are at the lower end of the quality spectrum.

How do you choose between an electric bicycle and an electric scooter?

Let me point out some pros and cons, and some personal biases. From there, you can decide which fits your needs better.

Electric bike pros

• Much like the bicycle you grew up riding but a bit heavier due to the battery pack and motor
• Often have high quality bicycle gears and brakes form companies like Shimano and Magura
• Many of the parts are readily available at bicycle stores
• Two main propulsion technologies to choose from:
  • Pedelec = rider pedals. Motor input is only activated while pedaling. It feels like cycling with “tail wind”
  • E-Bike = Motor input is activated by turning a handlebar throttle
• We find that, on average, the quality and ease of maintenance of electric bikes is better than electric scooters
• No license or insurance required in most jurisdictions (subject to speed and wattage)
• Treated just like a bicycle for access to bike lanes and commuter trails
• ease of service and replacement parts
• large tires are usually better on rougher surfaces and trails
• no plastic panels to damage in the event of a mishap

Electric Scooter Pros

• very low seat height and step-through clearance
• provides some protection from rain and wind
• USUALLY does not require a license or insurance (subject to speed and wattage)
• USUALLY allowed on bike lanes and commuter trails
• often has a built in alarm system and steering lock
• has lockable, waterproof storage under the seat
• often has a rear cargo box for additional lockable storage
• simple “twist ‘n go” operation
• small tires are very maneuverable

At this point, I have a bias toward electric bicycles over electric scooters. They are a more bulletproof design and many brands, such as the eZee bike, Sanyo eneloop, a2B, and kits by eZeebike and Bionx, are of superb quality with widely available replacement part components.

Here is a customer comment expressing his preference for an electric bike:

“I like the fact that I can ride to work using plenty of “assist” so that I don`t arrive at the office all sweaty. This is particularly appreciated by my co-workers since we do not have showers at work. On the way home, when I want to get a work out, I can use less assist or none at all and get some much needed exercise. With the electric scooter, it must be driven in `twist n`go`mode all the time since pedaling is more of a cruel hoax on these babies. The versatility makes the electric bicycle a preferred choice in my opinion.”

There are probably many customers out there who will give you a great counterpoint argument for the electric scooter.

Hope this helps.

Please leave your comments! Very helpful to the electric bike community!

Overview:

CODi Tri-Pack Backpack
Review July 15, 2010

Manufacturers Specs:

Size: 12.5 inches wide x 15.7 inches high x 7 inches deep
Weight: 2.6 pounds
Online Price: $110 US

Limited Lifetime Warranty

I have always loved the Chrome bags for bike riders, and scooter or motorcycle riders.After hearing some good things about the CODi Tri-Pak so I got one in and put it through its paces for about a month. The article that follows is the result of this real world testing.

The Tri-Pak is a backpack style laptop bag with plenty of compartments. Even if you are not carrying a laptop, this bag makes a pretty darn good little day pack.

The CODi Tri-Pack has plenty of pockets for all the common business travel gear. Padded laptop pocket holds a small to medium size laptop reasonably well.  My ancient Acer Ferarri Laptop is a little on the big side for this pack ad as you can see from the photos – this leaves the corners of the laptop a little vulnerable. The pack would be more suitable to most of the MacBooks or Netbook computers. The laptop pouch seems to have ample padding.  Another small gripe is that there is no pouch on the strap to hold a cell phone but there is a pretty good little pouch on the outside of the pack.  This pouch was a little too small to hold my Blackberry World Phone but will hold most smaller cell phones. It would also be a simple matter to get an accessory cell phone holder to attach to the front strap if that was a big deal to you.  We like the little mesh pouch on the side that accommodated a water bottle very well.

The shoulder straps are comfortable and there is a narrow strap across the chest which will keep the pack more stable. Fully loaded, we found the pack very comfortable to carry for long periods, The padded mesh back panel also helped to keep you from getting that clammy feeling on your back.

Our review pack was basic black with a discreet logo – not the type of pack that screams “steal me – I have a computer in me”.  The rounded shape of the exterior pockets give the pack a nice look but do waste some space. However, that shape does make the zipper pulls very smooth without having to go around any corners.

The zippers on the main pockets do not go all the way to the bottom. This is both good and bad. The good is that you can pick the pack up with the zippers partially open and not worry about everything dumping out. The bad is that you cannot lay the pack flat and open it wide open.

We did not give the pack a real soaking to see how it fared in the waterproof department. It was very good in a light rain at keeping our gear high and dry. The Chrome bags with their waterproof liner seem like a bit more of a secure solution if you are planning on being out in a downpour.

Overall impression

The Codi Tri-Pak is a very good pack. We liked the ergonomics and found it very comfortable to carry for long periods even when fully loaded. The zippers worked well and the nylon material and strap construction seem to be of high quality.

A few minor gripes with some of the zipper locations and sizing of exterior pockets.  I still think the Chrome bags  have the edge in waterproofing and I like the Chrome strap ergonomics a bit better since it is so easy to take on and off because of the seat buckle closure design (which seemed gimmicky at first.) The Chrome bags were designed by riders so it makes sense that they may be a bit better suited for this use.

I recommend put both the Chrome and CODi  bags on your shopping list and choose the one that fits your stuff and style the best.

I welcome your comments if you have used either the CODi or the Chrome Bags.

Corazzo realized that their Corazzo 5.0 was fast becoming the iconic scooter riders jacket – smartly, they did not venture too far from its design when they created the Corazzo Ventata.

Ventata is Italian for wind. With the new Corazzo Ventata armoured jacket, you can still have great protection like you get with our long-time favourite Corazzo 5.0 jacket and still stay cool on those hot summer rides.

Where the 5.0 jacket has heavy Cordura throughout, the Ventata has a lighter mesh for much of the body that allows for airflow. Strategically placed zippered vents also help with airflow management. The liberal 3M ScotchLite striping runs down the front and back of the jacket for great rider safety. The Ventata also retains the Knox®  armour pads in the elbows, shoulders, and a CE rated  back pad to protect those vital areas from road rash in the event of a mishap.

The material around the Ventata neck is softer and cut lower than we were used to on the Corazzo 5.0 which enchanced comfort.

Although the Ventata does not offer the same rain protection as the Corazzo 5.0, it is a simple matter to keep an inexpensive rain jacket under your seat that you can throw over your jacket in the event you get caught in a downpour.

Corazzo’s brief bio about the designer, Michael Fontasnarossa, says he has worked in design for Adidas, Nike, and Motorola – all no slouches in the design department. He is also an avid scooter and motorcycle rider which explains why his design integrates both form and functionality.

Summary

We love the Corazzo 5.0 jacket. If you can afford only one jacket and you ride in a variety of conditions, that is the jacket to get. The Corazzo Ventata is a superb warm weather jacket and can be supplemented with a sweater or hoody underneath for mor warmth when required or a rain coat over top is you get caught out in the rain.

Available in black or silver.

MSRP $179.00 US   or $209.00 CDN

Highly recommended.

We would love your comments and feedback if you have a Corazzo Ventata!

Motorcycle and Scooter Battery Maintenance

Your scooter or motorcycle battery is one of those maintenance items that should be checked on a regular basis so that your ride is ready to start and perform the way you expect. If you are leaving your scooter or motorcycle for any period greater than a couple of weeks without riding, it’s a good idea to get a battery tender to keep your battery in optimal condition.

Scooter or Motorcycle Battery Basics

12-volt batteries are not really 12 volts. Twelve volts is just a nominal, convenient term used to distinguish one battery from another. A fully-charged 12-volt battery, allowed to “rest” for a few hours (or days) with no load being drawn from it (or charge going to it), will balance out its charge and measure about 12.6 volts between terminals.

When a battery reads only 12 volts under the above conditions, it’s almost fully depleted. Actually, if a battery’s resting voltage is only 12.0 to 12.1 it means only 20 to 25% of its useful energy remains. It’s either a goner or it has been deep cycled, and a battery can only be deep-cycled a limited number of times before it is indeed dead.

12-volt batteries supply useful energy only through a limited range — from over 14 volts (when fully charged and unrested) down to 10.5 volts in use/under load (when lights dim, your motorcycle is hard to start). No 12-volt battery will remain at over 14 volts for more than seconds unless it’s being charged. The lowest limit is 10.5 volts (used in testing) and obviously unsatisfactory in practical use.

NOTES: Keep in mind that listed voltages are “Resting” Volts.
Table Courtesy of www.TotalMotorcycle.com

Maintaining Your Battery

If your scooter or motorcycle will not start, you usually do not have to look much further than the battery for the source of the problem. A little checking and periodic maintenance goes a long way. Many riders are deterred because on some scooters and motorcycles, the battery can be in an awkward location to readily access – time to get out the manual.

A few minutes of monthly maintenance will keep your battery working perfectly and also help to ensure a long battery life. Keep the battery charged to 100%, recharging when the lights dim, your horn sounds wimpy, the starter sounds weak, or the battery hasn’t been used in more than two weeks.

Here’s a good simple battery maintenance procedure:

Monthly battery maintenance will extend battery life and will make sure your motorcycle or scooter will be ready to start when you want to go.

Step 1

Put on  rubber gloves and protective glasses or goggles

Step 2

Removing the battery from the scooter begins by spraying the battery with battery cleaner such as Krylon #1336.

Using your screwdriver, disconnect the negative (-) wire on the battery first. Remove the positive wire (+) and remove the battery strap or belt. Pull the battery out SLOWLY, so the overflow tube does not catch.

Step 3

Take the disconnected battery to a clean space and place the battery on some newspaper. Clean the battery top to keep free of dirt and grime prior to opening the caps on the battery chambers. If the terminals are corroded, take a wire brush and brush them clean, wipe filings and dirt away with a dry cloth. Spray battery cleaner onto a lint free cloth and wipe the terminals.

Step 4

If the overflow tube appears dirty, kinked, or clogged, remove the overflow tube and clean it by spraying battery cleaner through the tube. Run the tube under hot running water until it’s clean. Used compressed air to blow out the water and re-attach.

Step 5

Check the fluid (electrolyte) level in each chamber. On the front of the battery, see the fill level in each cell; they should all be just below the “High” fill line. If they appear lower than this level on a flat surface, you should fill them up. To fill the cells, pull off the filler cap for that cell with a pair of needlenose pliers. Most filler caps pull straight out; however, some are threaded, so twist them in the direction marked first. Look inside for excessive sediment, and sulfation. Top up only with distilled or deionized water (NOT TAP WATER). Tap water has minerals which will reduce battery effectiveness and life. Replace the filler caps.

Step 6

If your battery was severely discharged for some reason (signals not working, horn quiet or tail light not coming on when the key is turned), charge it up with a motorcycle battery charger (never more than a 2 amp charger). Make sure you have the charger set on the correct voltage for your battery (6 volt or 12 volt). Also check the fuse in the your bike while the battery is out. The fuse is usually held in a clip-on holder on the left-hand side of the battery platform. If the fuse is blown, replace it before installing the battery. Check for any rust or corrosion inside or outside the fuseholder. If it is corroded replace the fuseholder without delay.

Step 7

Re-install the battery in the reverse order or removal making sure that the overflow tube goes back in the correct position. Check cables, clamps, and case for obvious damage or loose connections. If the rubber strap is broken, replace it. If the wires to the battery are corroded, clean them with that wire brush and carb cleaner. If you need to replace a battery connector, get a similar one from you local scooter or motorcycle shop.

Finish up by testing the battery with either a hydrometer or voltmeter if you have these available

Battery Storage

Storage can be hard on batteries. In fact, non-use can leave them unable to hold a charge.

Store your scooter or motorcycle in a place that is always above freezing temperatture. If your bike is outside remove the battery from your bike and store it in a location that is always warmer than freezing. This will insure that your battery does not freeze and crack.

If you remove the battery from your bike DO NOT store it on a concrete or metal surface, place the battery on a wood or other non-conductive surface. Batteries stored on concrete or metal will discharge over time.

Place a charger on your battery. Trickle charge your battery at least once a month with a quality battery tender. A battery that is fully charged will have a longer life.

Safety when working with your Scooter or Motorcycle Battery

Always wear a face shield or safety goggles.

Wear rubber gloves to prevent acid burns. An apron or smock will protect your clothes.

If you accidentally get battery acid in the eyes, flush for several minutes with water and seek immediate medical attention.

If you get battery acid on your skin, flush with water or a mixture of water and baking soda.

Clean up acid spills immediately using a water and baking soda solution to neutralize (1 lb. baking soda in 1 gallon of water).

Battery Charging Safety

Properly connect the charger to the battery: positive charger lead to positive battery post and negative charger lead to negative battery post. Unplug the charger or turn it off before you disconnect the leads, which will cut down on the chance of sparks.( + or red is  positive and – or black is negative.)

Charge your battery in a well ventilated area. A buildup of hydrogen and oxygen in the battery or in the charging area can create an explosion hazard.
If the battery feels hot to the touch during charging, STOP. Allow the battery to cool before charging again. Heat damages the plates, and a battery that is too hot can explode.
Make sure the vent tube isn’t kinked or blocked. Otherwise, gases could build up and explode.

ABSOLUTELY NO SMOKING, SPARKS OR FLAMES AROUND CHARGING BATTERIES. Charging gives off hydrogen and oxygen, which explode if ignited.

Interesting diagram shows the impact areas on crash-involved motorcycle helmets.

(Source: Dietmar Otte, Medizinische Hochschule Hannover, Abteilung Verkehrsunfallforschung, Germany.)

Note that 35% of all crashes showed major impact on the chin-bar area. This means that if you ride with an open-face helmet, you are accepting only 65% of the protection that could be available to your head.
If people ride with a shorty or half helmet, they are accepting only 39% of the protection they could obtain. They are literally throwing away 61% of the protection they would have had had they chosen a full-face helmet.

At Scooter Underground we always recommend a full face helmet as your main helmet, especially the one you may be using for daily commuting.

A recent study by the Seattle-based Sightline Institute shows that in 2009 British Columbia binged on fuel consumption. Per capita gas consumption rose by 10% – the highest year-over-year consumption increase in the last 30 years.

Rationalize this in any way you want, it just shows that British Columbians, by and large, just don’t seem to give a damn about the environment and conservation. The economy goes into a bit of a dive, gas prices get cheap, and we just give up on more fuel efficient means of transportation.

A couple of years ago, the economy was good and gas prices were high. Scooter and electric bike sales were skyrocketing. You would like to think this was due to a heightened awareness and caring for the environment but now, seeing the 2009 figures, there are serious doubts. We’re still just a bunch of gas guzzling idiots as long as the price is not too high.

Thankfully, the BC government had the foresight to introduce a carbon tax. Prices may be driven to the point where people will consider conservation. One hoped that people would act based on environmental consciousness and not just economics – but 2009 gas consumption statistics show otherwise.

In the days ahead, we hope federal, provincial, and municipal governments will look at innovative measures to encourage transportation modes such as scooters and electric bikes. These are important, and somewhat overlooked transportation modes that fall in between the bicycle and the automobile. Cheaper parking, purchase incentives, allowance in HOV lanes, etc. will all help to encourage more sustainable transportation modes. We also need to get more innovative in insurance and licensing requirements.

Licensing. Scooters up to 150cc should be able to be ridden with a standard driver’s license. Currently, motorists are restricted to 50cc scooters unless they have a motorcyclist license. By doing this, the scooter would be a much more viable commuting mode for  British Columbians who need the ability to commute at up to 80 kph. It is also safer to be able to drive a scooter that is able to keep up to the traffic flow. Many scooterists buy a 50cc scooter even if they are heavy, have hilly routes, or double ride – they cannot keep up to the traffic flow, The 50cc licensing rule causes them to buy a scooter that is not as safe as a larger one that is no more difficult to ride( and still no speed demon).

Since scooters are all automatic (no gears to shift), and the brakes are just like a bicycle, they are simple and safe to ride. BC’s own accident statistics bear out that scooters are a very safe mode of transportation.

Parking. Come on people..let’s get with it. Allow a scooter to pay a small annual fee for a parking decal that allow them to park in a number of designated areas, meter, and even some sidewalk areas. Cities like Toronto and Portland have done these things with great success. And for property developers – maybe the addition of scooter parking stalls may get you a variance on the number of expensive parking spaces you have to have in your project.

Insurance must get cheaper to allow multi-modal commuting. If you have a car, you should be able to pay a small additional insurance fee to also cover a scooter as long as it is not being used at the same time as the car. We need some innovative ideas to allow commuters to be multi-modal – choosing the best tool for the job on any given day.

So what can we do to get governments to push us in the right direction?  Clearly, if  left to our own means, we’ll just keep on being a bunch of gas guzzling idiots.

As always – we invite your comments.

Some of what you read here may be repetitive if you have already read Scooter Oil 101

Remember, there are two main types of motors is scooters – 2 stroke and 4 stroke. Almost all modern scooters above 50cc engine size are 4 stroke but many vintage scooters are 2 stroke even in the larger engine sizes.
Once your scooter is past the initial break-in period, it’s a good idea to pick one brand of quality oil and stick with it. This will avoid the potential screw-up of mixing and matching oils such as standard (dinosaur oil), synthetic, or semi-synthetic.

2 stroke scooter oil

2 strokes engines run on a mix of oil and gas and get lubrication from the oil which is mixed with the gas as combustion occurs in the cylinder. Most vintage 2 strokes and some modern high performance 2 strokes require the oil to manually be premixed with the gas (just like you would do for a chain saw or weed whacker).

Older 2 strokes such as the vintage Vespas were designed to burn large quantities of 2 stroke oil – in the range of 8 – 10 ounces per gallon. This made for quite a trail of blue smoke and a smelly machine that was not environmentally friendly. Newer 2 strokes have much more efficient designs and can burn as little as 1 ounce per gallon – not as environmentally friendly as a 4 stroke, but pretty darn good compared to the scooters of yesteryear.

Most modern 2 strokes simply require you to fill an oil reservoir in the scooter and the oil is mixed with the gas automatically. Since 2 stroke scooters burn the oil and you are always replenishing the reservoir, they do not require oil changes like a 4 stroke scooter. Check this oil reservoir every couple of fill ups and, if you can, carry a bottle of 2 stroke oil with you under the seat. We recommend wrapping it in a Ziploc bag as an extra precaution against spillage.

Today’s 2 stroke oils are very advanced and designed specifically for certain applications and uses. Make sure you use a 2 stoke oil that is specifically designed for a scooter, not oil that is meant to be used in chainsaws,  lawnmowers, and the like. (Even motorcycle 2 stroke oils may not be formulated to optimize the performance of a 2 stroke scooter engine).

Again – make sure you are not using motor oil designed for a 4 stroke in a 2 stroke. Pick a high quality oil and stay with it. Some of the better, scooter specific oils cost a little more but it is cheap insurance. Brands like AMSOIL,  IPONE, Golden Spectro, Motul, and  Repsol have several scooter-specific 2 stroke oil formulations. Most are low odour-low smoke and IPONE even makes a strawberry scented oil. Modern oils can actually bond to the metal to build up a lubricating film over time (a good thing). Constantly changing oils or brands may keep this from happening.

4 stroke scooter oil

Four stroke motors are lubricated by an oil bath covering all the motor’s moving parts. 4 stroke scooter engines require oil changes since they are constantly recirculating the same oil rather than burning it. During the break-in period, this is especially important. Most scooter brands recommend using a non-synthetic during the break-in period and then you can change after that. Do not mix and match oils. If you are topping up your oil, make sure you know what is in your scooter and stick with it. (Not only, standard, synthetic, synthetic blend, but also the same brand if possible.)

Follow your manufacturers recommendations closely for both the type of oil to use and the oil service intervals. Being a bit anal about regular oil changes is cheap insurance for your scooter.

Common Questions about Scooter Oil

Which type of oil should I use, synthetic, semi-synthetic (synthetic blend) or mineral?

This may sound like a cop out, but check your manufacturers recommendations and then go to the internet and do some research on what people are saying in the various groups about the best oil recommendations for your particular scooter model. Remember, if you have done performance modifications, that can affect your choice of lubricants and frequency of oil changes. Don’t mix and match, even though there are some forums out there that say this may be an OK thing to do.

There are so many types of synthetic scooter oil – What is the difference?

Synthetic oil can be made to match the specific requirements of certain applications. Some are made to pre-mix, some can be used in both injector of pre-mix situations, some are specifically for pre-mix, some are low smoke, low odour, some are even scented. Other synthetics are made specifically for the demands of racing and high performance engines.

I want to switch to a synthetic oil, what should I do?

2 strokes

When you switch to a synthetic oil you should drain your oil tank if you have a injector bike – run your bike low on fuel if you are pre-mix – then start using the new oil. Be light on the throttle for the first tank so you can build up a film, but remember to stay with the same brand after you make the switch.

4 strokes

Warm up your scooter by riding around for 10 minutes or so. Remove the drain plug to drain all oil and also replace the oil filter. Fill up with the new oil and carefully check the level. Gently ride for a few minutes and then recheck the levels and look for any leaks around the filter or drain plug.

Your comments are welcomed and encouraged.