Josh Ilott and his team at Ride Scooters are pleased to announce that we are moving our scooter machine shop to  Victoria. Expert tuner, Josh Ilott, is a well-known and respected name in the Canadian scooter industry for over 15 years. He and his team are trained and experienced in modern automatics to vintage classics and everything in between. Ride Scooters is the name behind countless show-winning restorations and currently holds the coveted title of ‘fastest scooter in Canada’ (0-100kmph in 5.88 seconds). Josh’s work is a staple in the private collections of serious Scooter enthusiasts.

Ride Scooters will be open for business on March 1^st, 2012. From mild to wild, Ride Scooters offers dependable, knowledgeable and personalized service in the BEST tooled scooter machine shop in Canada.

Services offered:

·      Regular service to all makes and models, automatic to classic

·      Economy tuning

·      Machine shop services (cylinder porting, nikasil re-plating, aluminum welding, boring, honing, crank building, etc.)

·      Super tuning  (nitrous conversions, reed conversions, component lightening and more)

·      Concours restorations and custom work

·      Quality parts

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1jBvaa7GlVo

Contact ridescooters@gmail.com for more information.

Motorcycle and Scooter Battery Maintenance

Your scooter or motorcycle battery is one of those maintenance items that should be checked on a regular basis so that your ride is ready to start and perform the way you expect. If you are leaving your scooter or motorcycle for any period greater than a couple of weeks without riding, it’s a good idea to get a battery tender to keep your battery in optimal condition.

Scooter or Motorcycle Battery Basics

12-volt batteries are not really 12 volts. Twelve volts is just a nominal, convenient term used to distinguish one battery from another. A fully-charged 12-volt battery, allowed to “rest” for a few hours (or days) with no load being drawn from it (or charge going to it), will balance out its charge and measure about 12.6 volts between terminals.

When a battery reads only 12 volts under the above conditions, it’s almost fully depleted. Actually, if a battery’s resting voltage is only 12.0 to 12.1 it means only 20 to 25% of its useful energy remains. It’s either a goner or it has been deep cycled, and a battery can only be deep-cycled a limited number of times before it is indeed dead.

12-volt batteries supply useful energy only through a limited range — from over 14 volts (when fully charged and unrested) down to 10.5 volts in use/under load (when lights dim, your motorcycle is hard to start). No 12-volt battery will remain at over 14 volts for more than seconds unless it’s being charged. The lowest limit is 10.5 volts (used in testing) and obviously unsatisfactory in practical use.

NOTES: Keep in mind that listed voltages are “Resting” Volts.
Table Courtesy of www.TotalMotorcycle.com

Maintaining Your Battery

If your scooter or motorcycle will not start, you usually do not have to look much further than the battery for the source of the problem. A little checking and periodic maintenance goes a long way. Many riders are deterred because on some scooters and motorcycles, the battery can be in an awkward location to readily access – time to get out the manual.

A few minutes of monthly maintenance will keep your battery working perfectly and also help to ensure a long battery life. Keep the battery charged to 100%, recharging when the lights dim, your horn sounds wimpy, the starter sounds weak, or the battery hasn’t been used in more than two weeks.

Here’s a good simple battery maintenance procedure:

Monthly battery maintenance will extend battery life and will make sure your motorcycle or scooter will be ready to start when you want to go.

Step 1

Put on  rubber gloves and protective glasses or goggles

Step 2

Removing the battery from the scooter begins by spraying the battery with battery cleaner such as Krylon #1336.

Using your screwdriver, disconnect the negative (-) wire on the battery first. Remove the positive wire (+) and remove the battery strap or belt. Pull the battery out SLOWLY, so the overflow tube does not catch.

Step 3

Take the disconnected battery to a clean space and place the battery on some newspaper. Clean the battery top to keep free of dirt and grime prior to opening the caps on the battery chambers. If the terminals are corroded, take a wire brush and brush them clean, wipe filings and dirt away with a dry cloth. Spray battery cleaner onto a lint free cloth and wipe the terminals.

Step 4

If the overflow tube appears dirty, kinked, or clogged, remove the overflow tube and clean it by spraying battery cleaner through the tube. Run the tube under hot running water until it’s clean. Used compressed air to blow out the water and re-attach.

Step 5

Check the fluid (electrolyte) level in each chamber. On the front of the battery, see the fill level in each cell; they should all be just below the “High” fill line. If they appear lower than this level on a flat surface, you should fill them up. To fill the cells, pull off the filler cap for that cell with a pair of needlenose pliers. Most filler caps pull straight out; however, some are threaded, so twist them in the direction marked first. Look inside for excessive sediment, and sulfation. Top up only with distilled or deionized water (NOT TAP WATER). Tap water has minerals which will reduce battery effectiveness and life. Replace the filler caps.

Step 6

If your battery was severely discharged for some reason (signals not working, horn quiet or tail light not coming on when the key is turned), charge it up with a motorcycle battery charger (never more than a 2 amp charger). Make sure you have the charger set on the correct voltage for your battery (6 volt or 12 volt). Also check the fuse in the your bike while the battery is out. The fuse is usually held in a clip-on holder on the left-hand side of the battery platform. If the fuse is blown, replace it before installing the battery. Check for any rust or corrosion inside or outside the fuseholder. If it is corroded replace the fuseholder without delay.

Step 7

Re-install the battery in the reverse order or removal making sure that the overflow tube goes back in the correct position. Check cables, clamps, and case for obvious damage or loose connections. If the rubber strap is broken, replace it. If the wires to the battery are corroded, clean them with that wire brush and carb cleaner. If you need to replace a battery connector, get a similar one from you local scooter or motorcycle shop.

Finish up by testing the battery with either a hydrometer or voltmeter if you have these available

Battery Storage

Storage can be hard on batteries. In fact, non-use can leave them unable to hold a charge.

Store your scooter or motorcycle in a place that is always above freezing temperatture. If your bike is outside remove the battery from your bike and store it in a location that is always warmer than freezing. This will insure that your battery does not freeze and crack.

If you remove the battery from your bike DO NOT store it on a concrete or metal surface, place the battery on a wood or other non-conductive surface. Batteries stored on concrete or metal will discharge over time.

Place a charger on your battery. Trickle charge your battery at least once a month with a quality battery tender. A battery that is fully charged will have a longer life.

Safety when working with your Scooter or Motorcycle Battery

Always wear a face shield or safety goggles.

Wear rubber gloves to prevent acid burns. An apron or smock will protect your clothes.

If you accidentally get battery acid in the eyes, flush for several minutes with water and seek immediate medical attention.

If you get battery acid on your skin, flush with water or a mixture of water and baking soda.

Clean up acid spills immediately using a water and baking soda solution to neutralize (1 lb. baking soda in 1 gallon of water).

Battery Charging Safety

Properly connect the charger to the battery: positive charger lead to positive battery post and negative charger lead to negative battery post. Unplug the charger or turn it off before you disconnect the leads, which will cut down on the chance of sparks.( + or red is  positive and – or black is negative.)

Charge your battery in a well ventilated area. A buildup of hydrogen and oxygen in the battery or in the charging area can create an explosion hazard.
If the battery feels hot to the touch during charging, STOP. Allow the battery to cool before charging again. Heat damages the plates, and a battery that is too hot can explode.
Make sure the vent tube isn’t kinked or blocked. Otherwise, gases could build up and explode.

ABSOLUTELY NO SMOKING, SPARKS OR FLAMES AROUND CHARGING BATTERIES. Charging gives off hydrogen and oxygen, which explode if ignited.

Some of what you read here may be repetitive if you have already read Scooter Oil 101

Remember, there are two main types of motors is scooters – 2 stroke and 4 stroke. Almost all modern scooters above 50cc engine size are 4 stroke but many vintage scooters are 2 stroke even in the larger engine sizes.
Once your scooter is past the initial break-in period, it’s a good idea to pick one brand of quality oil and stick with it. This will avoid the potential screw-up of mixing and matching oils such as standard (dinosaur oil), synthetic, or semi-synthetic.

2 stroke scooter oil

2 strokes engines run on a mix of oil and gas and get lubrication from the oil which is mixed with the gas as combustion occurs in the cylinder. Most vintage 2 strokes and some modern high performance 2 strokes require the oil to manually be premixed with the gas (just like you would do for a chain saw or weed whacker).

Older 2 strokes such as the vintage Vespas were designed to burn large quantities of 2 stroke oil – in the range of 8 – 10 ounces per gallon. This made for quite a trail of blue smoke and a smelly machine that was not environmentally friendly. Newer 2 strokes have much more efficient designs and can burn as little as 1 ounce per gallon – not as environmentally friendly as a 4 stroke, but pretty darn good compared to the scooters of yesteryear.

Most modern 2 strokes simply require you to fill an oil reservoir in the scooter and the oil is mixed with the gas automatically. Since 2 stroke scooters burn the oil and you are always replenishing the reservoir, they do not require oil changes like a 4 stroke scooter. Check this oil reservoir every couple of fill ups and, if you can, carry a bottle of 2 stroke oil with you under the seat. We recommend wrapping it in a Ziploc bag as an extra precaution against spillage.

Today’s 2 stroke oils are very advanced and designed specifically for certain applications and uses. Make sure you use a 2 stoke oil that is specifically designed for a scooter, not oil that is meant to be used in chainsaws,  lawnmowers, and the like. (Even motorcycle 2 stroke oils may not be formulated to optimize the performance of a 2 stroke scooter engine).

Again – make sure you are not using motor oil designed for a 4 stroke in a 2 stroke. Pick a high quality oil and stay with it. Some of the better, scooter specific oils cost a little more but it is cheap insurance. Brands like AMSOIL,  IPONE, Golden Spectro, Motul, and  Repsol have several scooter-specific 2 stroke oil formulations. Most are low odour-low smoke and IPONE even makes a strawberry scented oil. Modern oils can actually bond to the metal to build up a lubricating film over time (a good thing). Constantly changing oils or brands may keep this from happening.

4 stroke scooter oil

Four stroke motors are lubricated by an oil bath covering all the motor’s moving parts. 4 stroke scooter engines require oil changes since they are constantly recirculating the same oil rather than burning it. During the break-in period, this is especially important. Most scooter brands recommend using a non-synthetic during the break-in period and then you can change after that. Do not mix and match oils. If you are topping up your oil, make sure you know what is in your scooter and stick with it. (Not only, standard, synthetic, synthetic blend, but also the same brand if possible.)

Follow your manufacturers recommendations closely for both the type of oil to use and the oil service intervals. Being a bit anal about regular oil changes is cheap insurance for your scooter.

Common Questions about Scooter Oil

Which type of oil should I use, synthetic, semi-synthetic (synthetic blend) or mineral?

This may sound like a cop out, but check your manufacturers recommendations and then go to the internet and do some research on what people are saying in the various groups about the best oil recommendations for your particular scooter model. Remember, if you have done performance modifications, that can affect your choice of lubricants and frequency of oil changes. Don’t mix and match, even though there are some forums out there that say this may be an OK thing to do.

There are so many types of synthetic scooter oil – What is the difference?

Synthetic oil can be made to match the specific requirements of certain applications. Some are made to pre-mix, some can be used in both injector of pre-mix situations, some are specifically for pre-mix, some are low smoke, low odour, some are even scented. Other synthetics are made specifically for the demands of racing and high performance engines.

I want to switch to a synthetic oil, what should I do?

2 strokes

When you switch to a synthetic oil you should drain your oil tank if you have a injector bike – run your bike low on fuel if you are pre-mix – then start using the new oil. Be light on the throttle for the first tank so you can build up a film, but remember to stay with the same brand after you make the switch.

4 strokes

Warm up your scooter by riding around for 10 minutes or so. Remove the drain plug to drain all oil and also replace the oil filter. Fill up with the new oil and carefully check the level. Gently ride for a few minutes and then recheck the levels and look for any leaks around the filter or drain plug.

Your comments are welcomed and encouraged.

It was quickly apparent that the Ruckus, fresh off the showroom floor, lacked performance to match its rugged good looks. But a naked scooter like the Honda Ruckus is just the canvas that the scooter artist needs. Over the years, an industry of performance parts has sprouted up so that you can tune your Ruckus to match you personality and performance requirements.

One of the most active websites to help Honda Ruckus enthusiasts is www.totalruckus.com. If you are a Honda Ruckus rider, check out this site and get involved with the Ruckus community – there is probably a group of Ruckus enthusiasts in your city or town.

We’ve had it. No longer will we publish the horsepower ratings for scooters. They’re confusing and pretty much meaningless. The only reason we wanted to publish horsepower was so that a rider could do an apples to apples comparison between scooters and get some idea about which one had more poop – you know, giddy up. That’s what horsepower is all about isn’t it?

Well, after doing a lot of research, and trying to figure out why many scooters with more horsepower did not perform as well as scooters with lower published horsepower, we’ve come to the realization that, due to a lack of standards, confusion abounds. Published horsepower is next to meaningless.

Horsepower can be measured in many different ways in addition to the SAE and metric differences. Different manufacturers will publish different horsepower and different rpm. We found we were looking at web sites and owner’s manuals and often trying to compare the incomparable. (If you want to know more about horsepower we strongly recommend looking it up in wikipedia for some excellent information.)

Until there is a better standard, horsepower rating comparisons are bullshit. Get on the scooter and take it for a test ride. See how it performs off the line. What about at the top end when you wind it out? How is it going up hills? How is performance with heavier or lighter riders or when doubling? These are the things you want to know. Depending on the power of the engine and how the scooter is set up will make a lot of difference.

Let the test drive guide your decision and not the stat sheet.

• Scooter oil comes in a variety of types. (even strawberry scented oil shown at right)
• The most important thing you need to know about scooter engine oil is whether your scooter is a 2 stroke or a 4 stroke. There is a major difference between these two types of oil. 2 stroke oil gets injected into the gas and burned whereas 4 stroke engine is circulated to lubricate key parts without getting burned.
• Not all oil is created equal
• Learn about oil and be religious about checking it – both your scooter and your wallet will love you for it

About scooter oil…

If you do nothing else to maintain your scooter, focus on making sure it has the proper oil , at the proper intervals, in the proper amount, and you will go a long way to prolonging the life of your scooter and avoiding breakdowns and costly repairs.

This article focuses on Scooter Engine Oil. Another article, Scooter Gear and Hub Oil 101, will cover the other main areas that need regular lubrication.

With regard to engine oil, the first thing you need to know is:

Is my scooter a:

• 2 stroke (also designated as 2T)  or
• 4 stroke (also designated as 4T)

Two stroke oil

Two stroke oil differs from 4 stroke oil in one very important respect – it gets mixed with the gas and is burned during combustion. This is what is called the total loss principle which means you never have to change it since it all gets burned. You just have to keep adding more. This is also why you see that bit of blue smoke out of the tailpipe of a two stroke scooter. They are not as environmentally friendly as a 4 stroke scooter since the combusted oil contributes to smog forming emissions. On the plus side though, you tend to get more power and pep out of a 2 stroke engine of the same size as a 4 stroke engine.

Most modern 2 stroke scooters do not require you to premix the fuel and oil like you have to with a chain saw or weed whacker. The scooter has a separate reservoir for oil (usually under the seat). You fill it up, and there is enough oil in there to take you for a few tanks full of gas. Your scooter automatically injects the appropriate amount into the fuel and does all the messy work for you. (Some performance tuned scooters and racing scooters still run on premix.)

PART OF EVERY PRE-RIDE CHECK SHOULD BE TO CHECK YOUR OIL LEVEL IN THE RESERVOIR TANK. ALWAYS CARRY A SPARE CONTAINER OF THE APPROPRIATE 2 STROKE OIL UNDER THE SEAT.

Most modern scooters have an “idiot light” that will warn you if your oil is running low. Never rely on it. It WILL burn out or malfunction one day. The result of running out of oil in a two stroke is a seized engine which will require a new piston and cylinder and possible a damaged crankshaft. These are expensive repairs and you probably have better things that you’d rather spend your money on.

Even though many stores such as Home Depot or the corner garage will have 2 stroke oil, they usually carry the kind that is formulated for garden equipment, chain saws, or marine motors. In a pinch, it is better to use some 2 stroke oil that may not be the ideal formulation rather than run without any oil in the reservoir but beware it can cause problems.

The loads on scooter engines and the range of operating RPM’s are different on scooters than on weed whackers. Marine 2 stroke oils often have different additives for anti-corrosion that are not really relevant for scooter engines. USE SCOOTER FORMULATED 2 STROKE OIL AND USE THE PREMIUM BRANDS. ALTHOUGH THEY COST A BIT MORE, IT IS CHEAP INSURANCE. ALSO TRY TO BE CONSISTENT WITH THE BRAND YOU USE SINCE YOUR ENGINE WILL BE TUNED BASED ON THAT TYPE OF MIX.

ALL 2 STROKE OIL IS NOT CREATED EQUALLY. IN FACT, ALL 2 STROKE SCOOTER OIL IS NOT CREATED EQUALLY. (At Scooter Underground we carry a half dozen different types of specifically formulated 2 stroke oil and we can help you find the best one for your scooter.)

We will post another article that details the types of 2 stroke oil so that you can decide which one is best for your scooter.

Brands like:

• REPSOL
• IPONE (even offers a strawberry scented 2 stoke oil)
• MOTUL

Tend to be good quality, consistent, and understand the specific needs of scooter riders.

Once you have filled the reservoir with the right type of oil, riding is pretty care free except there is one little thing to be aware of – riding downhill. Most 2 stroke engines are only lubricating the engine when the throttle is being used. If you are going down a long hill, even though you may be coasting, you should give the throttle an occasional blip to inject some lubrication into the engine.

4 stroke oil

Four stroke oil does not get burned in a proper functioning scooter. It circulates in the engine to provide lubrication to the metal on metal surfaces to reduce friction. In the process of doing this, it gradually collects impurities and breaks down and therefore must be changes at periodic intervals. Harsh conditions such as excessive heat, dust, etc, will shorten the intervals between oil changes.

When it comes to oil change intervals, err on the side of doing it more frequently – this is cheap insurance and your scooter will love you for it.

WE RECOMMEND CHECKING YOUR OIL PRIOR TO EVERY DAY OF RIDING. IF YOU ARE TOO LAZY OR YOO RUSHED TO DO THIS, AT LEAST DO IT EVERY OTHER TIME YOU FILL UP WITH GAS – BARE MINIMUM.

The reason checking oil levels in your scooter is even more important than doing so in your car is that the oil reservoir capacity is small and even being a little low can have harmful effects on your scooter.

Checking oil in a 4 stroke is a bit more complicated than checking oil in a 2 stroke where you only have to look at the level. In a 4 stroke scooter, you should look at not only the level of the oil but the quality of the oil.

Oil should be checked with your scooter on the center stand and on a level surface. The dipstick is usually built into the filler cap.

• Wipe the area around the filler cap with a rag to remove dust and grime
• Unscrew the filler cap (which usually has the dipstick built in)
• Wipe the dipstick clean
• Reinsert the dipstick (check owner’s manual to see if you should screw it back in when checking the level or just dip
• Pull out the dipstick to see where the oil level reads on the dipstick
• Try to assess whether the oil looks dirty compared to what new oil looks like

If the oil looks dirty or you are near a service interval, look into getting an oil and filter change.

If the oil level is a bit low, oil should be added VERY CAUTIOSLY. Overfilling oil is quite a common problem and can cause serious damage to your engine. When the engine oil is overfilled, pressure can build up causing seals to leak or burst. The way to add oil is bit by bit. Fill a little, dip, check, fill a bit more, dips, check… get the picture.

Oil changes will be the subject of another article – “Changing the oil on your 4 stroke scooter”

When adding or changing oil, just like for the 2 stroke, there are many kinds of 4 stoke oil available. Again, we recommend scooter specific formulations from reputable companies such as:

Brands like:

• REPSOL
• IPONE
• MOTUL

There is a lot of debate about which is the best type of oil for a particular scooter. As a starting point, make sure the oil is the correct weight and grade as specified in your owner’s manual. Then there are synthetics, synthetic blends, non-synthetic, and race oils.

In general, you should not use a non synthetic in an engine where the owner’s manual specifies a synthetic or synthetic blend. Synthetics can generally be used in most engines, even if the owner’s manual does not call for a synthetic.

You should not mix and match the types of oil in your engine – for example, don’t top up a synthetically filled scooter with a non synthetic. Get a good brand and stick with that brand and type until the next oil change when you may decide to make a switch.

It is good to do oil changes more frequently than the specified intervals, especially in the early engine life when the engine is wearing in.

Regular oil checks and oil changes are cheap insurance for a relatively small cost and inconvenience.

The folks at Scooter Underground will make recommendations on the proper oil for your scooter and can book oil changes for you in our service department.

One final note, if you have done performance enhancements to your scooter, the recommended oil may differ from what is specified in the owner’s manual. Check with the experts.

Please give us you comments and inputs – it helps the whole scooter community!

Winter Scooter Riding

We wrote an article on putting away your scooter for the winter…but what if you ride through the winter?

This post has some interesting insights: http://vespalx150.blogspot.com/2008/11/winter-riding.html

If you plan to ride your scooter through the winter, we’ve got some tips for you too such as what to wear and what type of tires to use, but that’s not what this article is about.

Take Care of your scooter this winter - It will love you back!

Preparing your scooter to be parked for the winter

Where:

Ideally, a scooter being parked should be kept in a warm and dry storage space like a garage. Other choices include storage lockers, warehouse space, basements or carports. Dry is better than not dry – warm is better than not warm. Try to avoid having to store your scooter in an area where it will be subject to freezing temperatures. In areas where there is exposure to salt air, get your scooter inside. Same applies to areas with high levels of pollution as it is potentially corrosive.

We strongly recommend a scooter cover when storing your scooter for the winter and, if you have to store your scooter outside, a scooter cover is absolutely essential.

Every scooterist has a friend with some spare room in a garage or warehouse. If not, wheel it into your living room and it makes a great conversation piece.

What to do:

Taking a few simple precautions prior to putting your scooter to bed for the winter will save you a lot of grief when it comes out of hibernation in the spring. Parking your scooter in a warm, dry, place IS NOT sufficient winterization. Remember, it is the lack of use which affects a winterized scooter and you must take steps to ensure a long, trouble-free life for your scooter.

Fill Your Gas Tank

Many modern scooters have plastic fuel tanks which are not prone to rust. If your scooter has a metal tank, any condensation which collects on the interior walls will soon start to rust. Rust on the inside of a fuel tank will cause all sorts of problems because it gets into the fuel system and starts to gunk everything up.

Fill up your tank all the way to the top. Leave just about a shot glass of room to add some fuel stabilizer. (See below).

Stabilize Your Fuel

If left for long periods (sometimes as little as 6 weeks), gasoline will thicken and “varnish,” which will gunk up your jets, your fuel line, your fuel tap, and everything else between the gas cap and your exhaust pipe. For mor information on the need for fuel stabilizer, click here. We sell fuel stabilizer at Scooter Underground in small quantities suitable for winterizing your scooter- it is cheap and about a shot glass full is enough to stabilize the fuel in most scooter gas tanks. Follow the instructions on the bottle as to how much fuel to put into your tank. Add the stabilizer and cap your gas tank up tight – now it is oxygen-proofed and there is minimal risk of condensation! Rock your scooter from side to side to agitate the fuel in the tank to make sure the fuel stabilizer gets mixed properly with the gas. Before you put your scooter away, ride it around for a couple kilometers to ensure the stabilizer makes it all the way through the fuel line and into your carburetor. If you can’t ride it around, run it for about 5 minutes. Be sure to turn the fuel tap to “Off” before parking it if your scooter has a fuel valve.

Change the Oil (4 stroke Scooters)

We recommend changing your oil before putting your scooter to bed for the winter. Some people make an oil change part of a spring tune-up but we like to get the old gunky oil out before storing our scooter for the winter. (It’s sort of like not brushing your teeth before going to bed.)  This means one less step to perform in your spring tune-up. Be sure you warm your scoot up thoroughly before doing this, I’d recommend this step to be done after you stabilize the fuel and ride it around, the engine will still be plenty warm and the oil will run out better when it’s hot.

Place an oil collection pan underneath your gearbox and remove the drain bolt. Let the oil drip out for a little bit before you replace the bolt. Next, remove the oil fill bolt and fill it with the required amount of fresh clean oil, then replace the bolt. Take care to fill to the proper level using the fill marks on the dipstick or oil sight glass. Use the proper type of quality 4 stroke scooter oil. Brands like IPONE, Repsol, and Motul have been formulating oils specifically for scooters for many years. There are synthetics, non-synthetics, and blends. Check your owners manual to determine the appropriate type or ask our sevice advisors at Scooter Underground.

Fill your Oil Tank (2 stroke Scooters)

There is no critical winterization reason for doing this, but why not have a full tank of gas and full tank of oil waiting for you in the spring. Use good quality 2 stroke oil. There are synthetics, non-synthetics, and semi-synthetic oils. Consult your manual and talk to the staff at Scooter Underground and we will make sure you have the correct oil. One thing for sure, all 2 stroke oil is not created equal. Poor quality oils produce more smoke, often smell more, and often produce more harmful carbon in your engine. We have had great success with brands such as IPONE, Repsol, and Motul. You can even get scented 2 stroke oils that smell like strawberry – even pollution never smelled so good.

Check your signal lights, headlight, and horn

You should do this prior to any ride, but not that you are putting your scooter away for the winter, test all of these items. Check for cracked lenses and condensation. If you find any issues, this is a good time to order replacement parts. In the scooter business, many parts take weeks to arrive. Why not get these on order and get everything fixed up at a leisurely pace over the winter so that when spring comes you can hit the ground running.

Remove the Battery

Battery life will diminish rapidly if you leave it out in the cold all winter long. Before you park your scooter, pull the battery, bring it inside for the winter, and store it in a safe place where it won’t get knocked over of be exposed to flame, spark or temperature extremes.

It’s easy: open up your battery box or side cowl (wherever your battery lives), and with the scooter OFF, remove first the ground (black) lead from the terminal and keep it clear from the red lead or anything on the bike that will ground it (or you will get a nasty shock), and then the positive (red) lead. Remove the band that holds your battery in place, and lift the battery up and out. Don’t tip your battery, keep the up side up.

Use a good quality battery tender (which can be bought at Scooter Underground or any motorcycle shop for around 40 or 50 dollars) and charge it up, you don’t want to lose too much charge over the months or your battery will have a much shorter lifespan in the long run.

Note: There is a difference between a battery tender, battery charger, and trickle charger. What you want is a battery tender – it has some built in smarts to optimize the charging going to your battery and knows when to shut itself on and off. A tender will maximize the life of your battery and lead to the fewest battery problems.

Check your tires and adjust tire pressure

If your scooter is parked outdoors, many people also recommend parking it on a 2×4 or some board like that to keep the tires off the cold, wet ground (you have to put one under the stand also to keep things level.) At Scooter Underground, we just recommend overinflating your tires slightly as this will help to eliminate and flat spots that might be caused as your tires cool and deflate. Now is also a great time to have a look at your tires for excessive tread wear or any foreign objects. If you plan on riding your scooter in the cold and wet of winter, there are many tire tread patterns and rubber compounds that are suited to these conditions.

Rust-Proof Your Parts: Rust is a bad thing, and we want to keep it away from our scooters. As a preventative measure, cover your exhaust pipe with a plastic bag and fix it in place with a rubber band. This will keep the oxygen and moisture out of your exhaust system. You’ll also want to spray a little WD40 directly into your cylinder to rust proof those parts as well, so find your cylinder head, remove the spark plug and spray a little bit of WD40 around in there. This will put a thin coat over your piston and cylinder and help rustproof them.

If any of the service items sound a little intimidating to you, Scooter Underground has can perform a complete winterization service for you.

Fuel Stabilizer Explained

What Happens to Fuel When it is Stored?

Gasoline is made up of many different organic compounds. These organic compounds are constantly changing over time becoming new compounds that change the characteristics of the fuel. The same molecules that make up the best parts of gasoline can react with oxygen and other elements in the environment and form new molecules that build up to form gummy residues or varnish-like films that can clog up passages in fuel lines, carburetors, and injectors.

Some fuels are treated with oxidation inhibitors to allow them to be stored for up to 3 months without generating excessive deposits. Other fuels have no inhibitors at all. In any case, storage of equipment requires some special consideration for the fuel system.

Why Can’t These Problems be Avoided by Draining Fuel? One way to avoid most of these deposits is to completely drain the fuel tank and fuel lines. This procedure poses a number of problems. First, it is virtually impossible to get every drop of fuel out of the system by simply draining. In order to remove all fuel, lines must be blown out and dried, or enough fuel will remain to cause problems. Second, draining the fuel exposes the bare metal in the tank (many scooters have plastic tanks) and fuel system to air and moisture which, together, can result in the formation of rust and corrosion and which can allow gaskets to dry out, crack and shrink, leading to fuel leaks when the system is refilled. Third, drained fuel is a fire and safety hazard and represents an environmental problem. Properly disposing of this fuel is difficult. For these reasons, draining is not the solution.

Does Fuel Stored in a Tank or Can Cause Problems? Fuel stored in cans or tanks will also oxidize with many of the “bad acting” unstable molecules remaining in the solution. Using this fuel next season, greatly increases the likelihood that deposits will form in fuel systems while the equipment is used. In other words, stored fuel needs treatment too.

What does a fuel stabilizer such as STA-BIL Do? Fuel stabilizers are a blend of scientific additives all of which act together to prevent fuel from undergoing degradation and oxidation during prolonged storage. STA-BIL acts as a protective wrapper around fuel molecules so they cannot combine with oxygen or other molecules to form new “bad actor” molecules. The “sweetened” fuel will perform its job thereafter as though it had just been freshly pumped into the fuel tank straight from the refinery pipeline.

How Well Does STA-BIL Work? Better than you can imagine. On average, STA-BIL improves gasoline life 5 times. The average gasoline is extended from 3 months oxidation life without STA-BIL to 15 months with STA-BIL. Compared to any other products pretending to extend fuel life, STA-BIL is 4 to 9 times more effective according to accepted standard fuel stability tests IASTM D5251.

What Kind of Engines Need STA-BIL? Any engine stored for 90 days or more needs STA-BIL. This includes all 2-cycle or 4-cycle engines used in lawnmowers, marine engines (inboard and outboard, snow-throwers, motorcycles, chain saws, recreation vehicles, snowmobiles, generators, pumps, golf carts, automobiles, trucks, garden tillers, lawn edgers, garden tractors, farm equipment, mini- bikes, motorscooters, you name it. If it has an engine and is stored for a season or more, it needs STA-BIL.

Is STA-BIL Hard to Use? It’s simple. Just add STA-BIL to the fuel according to the recommended dosage on the package. (Measuring is easy based on the number of squeezes through the measuring cap.  Agitate the fuel tank if possible, then start and run the engine for 5 minutes or more. After that, simply shut off the engine and store the equipment away. Next season, the engine will start easily and run smoothly.

Article Courtesy of Scooter Underground www.scooterunderground.ca

Based on our experience and from a collection of scooter resources on the internet.